..      ..   .. . . Me..~~.
             the               )
    board  
   water
gravity
4:00 am
peel on the
suit...just the
******* are out
and the sharks to boot.
Paddle out in between sets ...it's a bit chilly, ain't ready yet............

gotta warm up, so I **** in the suit...

Here we go ready for flight..
Let the first roller cruise
right on by,.....the next one's breaking perfectly..10 feet high.

Tip the board on 180 and cup my hands....one two three strokes.... all the way to the sand....
cuz that's how we roll,
the dawn patrol band.