Awaiting the storm Forming on distant shores. Preparing myself for The oceans tidal swell. Opening my heart To the rawest of elements. I ride the anticipation Of the coming waves. Conquering the building Fear as the water leaps high. A great solid wall Unfurling its rippling energy. Through the tube, Board skimming, skipping. Flirting with danger, Risking everything, Inside a living Hollow cocoon of Thundering power. Controlled fear beats Inside my pumping heart, Driving my adrenaline Through to spiritual fulfilment. On exiting the beast, It rolls onward to its death. Through its existence We both lived, sharing A unique oneness. Children of nature within A union of creation, so special, It takes the breath away. Savouring my exhilaration, I see another wave being born, And prepare to surf again.
in it's entirety, this poem is deeper than just a day surfing. It is about love and life, various aspects of love and life. If you only see surfing - it is also about the surfing experience, but also, how the surfing experience relates to love and life - return another time for a reread.