It is the biggest potato farm in the world, a giant field of tubers as far as eyes can see; new potatoes boiled with a pat of butter; delicious, no need to slam in a lamb. Once a battlefield thousands of Russians and Germans soldiers bled to death here the soil grew fertile, absorbed all flesh only bones and uniform buttons left. The soldiers didn’t die in vain, saved from old age debilities, Alzheimer, renal diseases, hip replacement and triple bypass. I found a rusty gun, a German Luger pistol it fell to pieces in my hand, bullets inside still intact, owned by an officer telling his men to die like Prussian heroes. Long furrows of edible tubers, made into fries, full of fat, grandchildren of dead soldiers are obese and only fight virtual games.