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Varanasi *

Ganges, dawn, a luminous haze over the water. The bathing ghats are busy with the faithful. (But India is inconceivable without faith.)   The robed bathers, raising river water to the sun, pouring it back to mother Ganges, are they worshipping the sun or the river? For them God is everywhere and everything.  Water, sun, the river and the twinkling lamps floating on it are part of one consciousness. The burning ghats too (such quantities of wood stacked ready) are beginning their day. The funeral party approaching in respectful haste have a job to do. They build their pile, move the body to the wood, start the fire. I watch, but not for long. This moment, so intimate, so public, reminds me I am an intruder here. The ashes will return to Ganga unwitnessed by me. Away from the river, the vendors of tea do their trade among the stalls. Monkeys, cheerfully pilfering, are chased away half-heartedly, for they are Hanuman’s representatives, and they, with the sacred, garbage-clearing cows, are part of the one consciousness. In this land all are “the faithful”, everything is God’s creation. In this poverty is richness.
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Written by
paul-hansford
81 / M
Published
Nov 29, 2016
Lines·Words
31·190
Notes

Varanasi is the Hindu holy city formerly called Benares. The "ghats" are a series of steps leading down to the river, and are divided into areas for various purposes. Hanuman is the Hindu monkey-god.

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