Minarets stand tall and sleek and proud, announcing prayers at intervals at odds with the hourly bells of the basilica Red rooves jostle for space amid bullet-ridden history and rejuvenated, freshly painted homes and tourist-inducing restaurants and market shops selling trinkets: silk scarves, bronze pots wooden flutes and ubiquitious paintings of Stari Most Crowds fill the lane leading to the revered bridge, like pilgrims A heady mix of peaceful nations, short skirts passing by headscarves trading surreptitious glances snapping photos of the bridge or themselves and the bridge or loved ones and the bridge Watching with a rooftop drink a bold and daring young man small and youthful from a distance encourages support and jumps into the cold Neretva river vigorously proving life goes on