The sky lies on the horizon like a smoke-coloured cat draped over a sofa of heather, purple as pansies but sharper, scratching against boots and paws. It washes across the landscape in a swathe of paint, broken by breadcrumb rocks.
Up here, the wind gallops, almost spins me round to face home again. Water framed by narrow paths like battlements, flicking onto grey stones and sand, smell of earth, damp air.
Our path drops down like the side of a ship and the dog, ginger beacon in a sea of bog-grass, skids on his front paws. I shuffle sideways, crab steps slipping from mud to puddle.