Bosporus 1956, the old tanker where I was a galley boy had anchored waited for orders to proceed into the black sea. A rowing boat came alongside they were selling fez the latest fad among us ******. They also sold sweet liqueurs which I drank, got drunk and sick for the first time in my life; I was 15teen. In the old days, you had to grow up fast and learn to howl with the dogs. The winter weather was sunny I was awed by the Byzantine mystic like a fairytale story. I bought the fez. The last time I was in Istanbul -30 years later- on a ship where I was a cook. my fall from officer grade had been painful and political. in Istanbul going back to the ship I was followed by a back of dogs begging for food raided the galley they knew I was a generous cook