sitting in the laptop cubicle aboard the Queen of Surrey a duo of older women scuttle past as I open a new document. "blank page," the first one says. I laugh. "Well, you've gotta start somewhere." "Totally blank page," the second chimes in. I chuckle again. As they scuttle on forwards, the second, with a bruised right-eye purple and black from God-knows-what, says, "she's mean. Dont talk to her." I laugh again and nod, "Okay."