We walk the smoke-thick winter street of sweet 'n' sour aromas amongst a throng of oriental shaded faces (such gentle souls) who crowd little pushcarts selling scallion pancakes. Overhead, red talismanic paper lanterns bob, enticing us to the tap of percussive chopsticks.
We sit in awe; snack on duck-tongue; roast pigs hang glistening; fat-fresh, ready to fry. Waiters wheel trolleys piled high with steaming shrimp noodles past tables of golden oranges and watermelon seeds. Our Chinese chef prepares shredded pork in garlic sauce.
He smiles and says: "More guests means more happiness."