Sitting on the board
anticipation gripping me
staring at the tiny waves before me
taking them easily
closing my eyes
I breathe
fingertips soaking beneathe
I breathe in the big wave
Opening my eyes to my surprise there she was
she was beautiful
gracefully slicing through the water to greet me
I kiss the wave with the nose of my board
she takes me up
I am having the ride of my life
the wave starts to curl and I dip down and rip under
splashing the water on both sides of me
the hole looks way too small to surf out
dipping lower I grip my toes
The wave closing in on me
Maybe she was too big for me
she quickly engulfs me
swallowing me whole
sending me crashing into the koral
pain searing through my body I reach the surface
the tiny waves now taking me back tumbling down
each blow sends me spiraling down
reaching the surface I take a huge breath of air
choking out water
reaching the sharp shore
crawling through the shells
grabbing the remains of my destroyed board