#surfing
Summer Days Soakin up the rays
Bitchin’,even a Barney wants to stay
Snag a cool parking Space praise
Hang Loose Lollygag purple haze
Trust me Sand gets in every crack
Small price to pay for where we’re at
Bro Giggle Wiggle into the wetsuit
Stoked Complaints are resolute
I was a clucked, clam dragger, **** dragger
Paddlepuss with sketchy haggar form
Watching for the men in Grey suits
Radical sick, yes too much time in the soup.
Dawn patrol Bro 5am pound the sand
Wax the deck with *** wax brand
Paddle out cup your hand
First wave of the day hang ten stand
Clean wave, no mashburgers Rico grand
Sunburn fades to a golden tan
Something quick to eat in hand
Plenty of water, flip-flops hot sand
Tricks of the trade change your clothes
At the side of your car Modesty goes far
****** Washing machine, tombstone
PartyWave ,Wipe out, a Kook surfer alone
Summer jobs to support the habit
Summer Loving, beach bunnies rabbit
Surreal Sunset , ankles slappers fun time
At the beaches from Malibu to County line
Our only issue was gas money
Life was righteous cool
Careful not to become somebody’s fool
Ending the season spectacular drool
Careful not to drift too far
Beyond the bluff, Blacks Beach
**** not for young eyes
Teenagers took a peek or two surprise
Two epic weeks every summer kid trio
Family Camping at Leo Carrillo
Fun at Free Zuma Beach Malibu,
swim the ocean and surfing canoe
Ventura County Line. where the surfers lineup and watch an epic sunrise sublime
Catch the morning waves Blessed days
Were adventure’s I’ll never forget
Surfers live by this Philosophy
Life‘s a beach, love the smell of the sea
Only surfers know the feeling,
No Wave no glory, drugs no thanks,
Surfing is life. The rest are details.
Life‘s a wave, go big or go home
Let your surfing do the talking
Work is for people who don’t surf
If it swells ride, it doubt, paddle out
Inspired songs
Surfing USA by The Beach Boys
Surfer girl by The Beach Boys
Surfing safari by The Beach Boys
Aug 28, 2024
Aug 28, 2024 at 7:35 PM UTC
“Valentine’s weekend,” is performing well in 2026’s attention economy. I know I like the sound of it - it sounds industrial-strength hopeful.
Romance has always been packed with impulse and desire,
but today’s lovers aren’t just flirting with emotional destruction,
they’re literally kissing it on the lips - those digital images are hard to erase.
Surfing the lonely Internet,
in that boiling AI firmament,
are the ashes of emotional content.
Luckily, on that ever vibrating web,
every now-meaningless moment,
competes with the last.
Me, I have a straight-up brag this valentines weekend.
I have a guy who, out of nowhere on a Sunday,
texts me his undying love.
Winner winner frozen dinner!!
.
.
A song for this:
I Fall In Love Too Easily by Chet Baker
BIRDS OF A FEATHER by Billie Eilish
Feb 15
Feb 15, 2026 at 11:42 AM UTC
If the green waves in Siargao
and the blue swells in La Union
could meet somewhere and speak,
what would they talk about?
In what language, even?
Ilocano? Bisaya? Tagalog? Español?
Or perhaps the better question is;
what would they 𝘯𝘰𝘵 talk about?
If the waters of Siargao could introduce itself
to the northwest wind of La Union,
I think,
they would create waves more gigantic
than Bondi or Nazare.
And if the eastern Pacific wind of Siargao
kiss the West Philippine Sea beside La Union,
I believe,
they would cause tsunami bigger than Japan's.
The waves would be bigger than anywhere else,
together they would be the best.
Or they could be the worst.
And so God willed La Union in the northwest,
and Siargao further down south in Mindanao.
And so they could not speak, meet and kiss...
Jul 28, 2024
Jul 28, 2024 at 1:01 AM UTC
Maybe I don't wanna be better?
If your definition of "better" is to risk
this spark of joy and trade it
for pangs of burn and bouts of pain,
then maybe I don't wanna be better.
My darling dear,
life is already painful as it is.
Maybe I wanna surf where it wouldn't hurt?
And if being around
other hurt surfers would,
I'd very much fancy riding the waves alone,
catch a break or break down on my own,
so I wanna surf where it wouldn't hurt.
My north wind,
reality cuts deeper than reefs.
Maybe I wanna stay in the shallow?
If your depth is where I could lose myself,
yet again, and break my back,
skin and bones
and swim back to shore
or drift lifeless alone,
then maybe I just wanna stay in the shallow.
My grand sea,
love should not hurt and bleed.
Jul 24, 2024
Jul 24, 2024 at 12:05 AM UTC
I listened to the waves earlier this morning,
Even if they were not real.
There was also rain, plenty of rain, and weirdly,
As plenty of seagulls.
The sand was covering my mind, and my toes,
And the imaginary surfists were high on the mood.
Heavy-hearted storm taking all of me is gone,
Washed away by the shadow of all the tall waves.
It's really
'bout
to topple
over me tho
and I swim so terribly, Hon'.
Dec 3, 2020
Dec 3, 2020 at 3:08 PM UTC
As I Watch You From Afar My Heart Skips A Beat Yearning For Your Embrace
Memories Of You Flowing Through My Mind How We Were Once One
As I Felt The Cool Breeze Flowing Through My Hair And The Salty Taste Of Your Kiss On My Lips
Grabbing My Board I Run Towards You And Dive Right Into Your Arms
My Spirit Is Lifted And My Soul Is Peaceful As I Proceed Your Epic Wave.
Aug 31, 2020
Aug 31, 2020 at 5:13 PM UTC
She told me that she loves deep
& the swell of her heart
Holds so much water.
I myself never believed that
The world was round.
The clouds themselves
hang their shoulders
Out the dresses the sun has woven
& the sky proves that night gowns
Are not only brought in stores.
She told me that she loves deep
& the swell of her heart
Holds so much water.
With the stars of her eyes
Lighting the way.
I'll find a way
If she were to close her eyes
& the stars were to disappear
From the sky.
I am forever thankful.
Adorned in the swell
Of her heart
Mar 3, 2020
Mar 3, 2020 at 4:25 PM UTC
Google is the gift for
An inquisitive student,
Who is in search to
be knowledgeably potent.
Although it makes
One so dependent,
It bestows erudition
That is too consistent.
Google serves us with mail,
That saves our time to sail.
It’s services like the maps
Leaves a stranded person to bridge the gaps.
Gaps? Yes, it bridges the gaps
With all its possible apps,
The interests of the public
And concepts of the prolific.
When Google well handed
Our queries have added,
Whose possible solutions have multiplied,
For which the efforts been phenomenally divided.
With the transforming technologies
In this world of transience
Google has procured
Its own state of omnipresence.
Thus, Google has become the tool
With which the user can rule.
It endows as a surfing equipment
Hence, Google is the gift for a Student.
Jan 7, 2020
Jan 7, 2020 at 1:40 AM UTC
It's not all been bad.
I have had some fun
I started to surf
when I was young
If ever I was lost
And out of reach
I'd often be found
Down at the beach
My own little sanctuary
Where I could be free
Either sat on the sand
Or out in the sea
I love the ocean
It blows my mind
It's Calming yet dangerous
Misterious yet kind
The energy's magestic
The feeling of joy
Has captured my attention
Since I was a boy.
It's led me to travel
To far distant shores
I've met so many people
Opened so many doors
I've surfed with monkeys in trees
And elephants on the beach
Surrounded by dolphins
And turtles within reach
I've surfed during sunsets
And sun rises as well
Trippy seas and Trippy skies
As if under a spell
I've almost **** myself sometimes
When caught in a gnarly rip
Being dragged out to the big stuff
That aint no ego trip
When you can't see beneath
The deep grey sharky water
And the fish race away
Is it me for the slaughter?
But hang on, there it is
Thank you neptune and peseidon
Look out to the distance
there on the horizon
A little bump
It's coming near
A pulse of swell
It's almost here
I turn around
My stick I straddle
I face the land
And start my paddle
Then suddenly
It lifts me up
Propels me forward
Fills my cup
It makes me feel
so very awake
I jump to my feet
For goodness sake
I'm 100%
Right there in the now
Conjoined with nature
No interest in how
Just doing it because
I'm it's biggest fan
Loving it loving it
because It's there and I can
Already a treat
This gift keeps on giving
I put in a few turns
Life is so worth living
Then the wall gets top heavy,
It's the best feeling ever
Everything goes quiet
It's a sublime endeavour
I'm inside the wave
for a second or two
The green room, The barrel.
Deep in the blue
There's no feeling like it
I can't even explain
Wonderous, breathtaking
It's ******* insane
I pull out of the journey
Can't get any higher
Full of adrenaline
My brain is on fire
Riding those waves
Gives me so much pleasure
I guess like the pirate
Finding the treasure
The greatest way
To improve my emotion
Is to float about
In that big old ocean.
Oct 24, 2019
Oct 24, 2019 at 1:30 PM UTC
The feeling of the saltwater getting through my hair, is amazing to.
The balance you make while standing on your board, like you're finally completed.
Like my heart is on the right place.
Jul 31, 2019
Jul 31, 2019 at 8:05 PM UTC
Scrounging local garage sales... near ten years past... I had found a flat, welded iron, rusty seahorse... 3 feet high... with a good seahorse shape and poise... edges welded and cut... after the haggle... twenty-five dollars..... perfectly added to my estate... covered rust in gold sheen... mounted upon a tree... to greet all comers... with a seahorse kiss!
Seller said it was made by the same artist... of the turtle lady statue... to be found in Corpus Christi! Asked if I had seen it... my reply... No, but I liked the seahorse piece! He expounded... the artist... only had one leg... but was a surfer... well known for this trait... in Corpus Christi!
After I had mounted the seahorse... upon it's tree...I did an internet search... looking for anything about the one-legged surfer artist of Corpus Christi! Found... nothing!
End of May, 2019... visiting my sister, Donna... we were wandering Corpus Christi! She guided us to the surf museum... not knowing the story... of the one-legged surfer artist... creator of my mounted seahorse!
Girl at the front desk... Kyla... real nice and friendly... told her about the seahorse and questioned her... she didn’t know... she never heard of a surfer with one leg or the turtle lady statue! Looking at us just a bit strangely... one legged surfer???
Donna and I... started our stroll through the small museum! Along the right side... stood a long row of surfboards... I’ve never surfed... but I was imagining trying it with just one leg!
Anyhow... I didn’t really stop to read or look in any detail at any of the exhibits until I reached the back... there was a glass case... which had a piece of simple letter paper... 8.5x11... taped to the front of the glass cabinet! I started in reading the last paragraph...
“Welch, 53, and his wife, Chelsea Louise, 23, died September 15, 2001, when their car plunged off the edge of South Padre Island’s Queen Isabella Causeway, which partially collapsed after a string of barges crashed into the bridge’s support pilings!
Thought to myself... Wow... Who is this guy??? I jumped up to the middle paragraph...
“Welch lost one of his lower legs in an auto accident in the 1970s, but he kept surfing with a prosthesis. He wore a peg-like prosthesis at first, then got one with a foot. He won the prosthesis division of the United States Surfing Championships on South Padre Island in 1998.”
In the glass case was a welded metal sculpture of a beach scene... with waves, palm trees, and all! The piece did have some resemblance in style to my seahorse sculpture! Also, there was a picture on top of the case... of Harpoon Barry... striking a muscular, no shirt pose... in his tattoo shop... his torso covered in tattoos!
“It is said... he was on the verge of suicide after losing his leg. In one interview with the San Antonio Express News in 1992 he said; "I may not make it to heaven, but you can be sure I made no deals with the devil to get where I'm at now, " Looking down at his false leg stretched out in front of him, Welch said quietly: "It is a real empty feeling when you put one of these on for the first time, especially if you are an adult on your own. And your mama'a not there and your daddy's not there, and the people in the hospital tell you, 'This is the best it's going to get. I made my first leg myself, out of Hi-C cans. I couldn't wait for my leg to get finished. I wanted to walk. I guess I got the idea from the Tin Woodsman in 'The Wizard of Oz.' That leg actually worked pretty well!”
I had found my one-legged surfer artist! I walked towards Donna... who was already half-way leaving the museum... I hollered to her... she just had to come see this ... “I think I found the one-legged surfer!” She had recently had partial knee replacement... and was hobbling! She said if I was fooling her... she better not walk back all that way for nothing!! She came back to the glass case... we read through the letter in it’s entirety!
Then we went... and told Kyla at the front desk... she again looked at us again a bit strange... but then reluctantly left her post to go with us to take a look... she was then astounded! Said she never knew about the one-legged surfer... although she had worked at the museum for several years! Said there were also a couple metal sculptures... at the front of the museum... she thought were also done... by Harpoon Barry! We took pictures of those also!
In the letter we also read...
“Welch had numerous tattoos and body piercings. He wore a tiny 14 carrot gold harpoon through one ****** That is how he got his nick name according to a friend, Scott Gangel.”
"I am a unique, self-made sensation!” he said matter-of-factly... in the interview with the Express News!
It's been 18 years since eight people died when South Padre Island's Queen Isabella Memorial Causeway collapsed... sending 11 people into the water below... four days after the 9/11 attacks! A string of tow barges had struck the supporting pilings! A section of the roadway had collapsed...
I promised Kyla... I would donate my seahorse piece to the museum upon my death! I only hope my death... is as grand as Harpoon Barry’s plunge into the Gulf of Mexico with his young wife! Wonder what they were doing during the plunge... what was Barry doing... yelling Yippee Ki Yay... or Surf’s up... Dude!!!... maybe???
Surfed waves on one leg
Young wife... crazy life... grand death
Harpooned by Barry
© 2019 Jim Davis
Jun 10, 2019
Jun 10, 2019 at 7:47 PM UTC
and we are all
just
surfing along
on this thing
called life
until we get thrown
overboard
by
the
waves
Jan 8, 2019
Jan 8, 2019 at 11:43 AM UTC
.. .. .. . . Me..~~.
the )
board
water
gravity
4:00 am
peel on the
suit...just the
******** are out
and the sharks to boot.
Paddle out in between sets ...it's a bit chilly, ain't ready yet............
gotta warm up, so I **** in the suit...
Here we go ready for flight..
Let the first roller cruise
right on by,.....the next one's breaking perfectly..10 feet high.
Tip the board on 180 and cup my hands....one two three strokes.... all the way to the sand....
cuz that's how we roll,
the dawn patrol band.
Sep 14, 2018
Sep 14, 2018 at 7:07 AM UTC
A salty breeze kisses my sun-soaked shoulders
Bringing relief to my cherried skin
As I bob up and down in a swell of nature’s ferocity
A growing wall takes shape and draws ever closer
The frequency of my heart now starts to resemble the shimmering
Of the very surface of which I cling to life on
As a force unlike any other now takes control
I can but only steer and guide myself through
Until I ****** myself up in an attempt to challenge
This uncontrollable energy of mother nature
I lean forward and turn to face this emerald giant
Sparkling with the allure of a thousand precious gems
Ready to at any moment heave me into her churning *****
I am at peace and serenity takes ahold of me
-R
Sep 4, 2018
Sep 4, 2018 at 3:05 PM UTC
When the waves come crashing over you...and the saltwater fills your mouth.
When you've turned like a towel in the washer of life...and your thought is nowhere to be found.
When it seems almost hopeless to surface again. As your fall was predestined from birth.
In these moments find self in the memory of WHY...as each wave knows its place on the earth.
Jun 12, 2018
Jun 12, 2018 at 2:26 AM UTC
Out of the body cage and into space
the soul finds itself in another place.
As in a dream it moves so far around
with the feet hardly touching ground.
It meets all sorts of people out there
and towards many of them feels bare.
There are others that it seems to hold
in a fond memory from times of old.
It can barely recognise where it goes
but places look so familiar it knows.
And as often as when it gets itself lost
or in a spot of bother that it will cost
comes quickly home to its body cage;
'out of harm's way' is that old adage.
To wake up and sense that it is back
in that old comfortable body shack.
At times trembling with cold 'n fear
knowing it has been away from here.
The body does become a little cold
when the soul escapes from its fold
and so if it stays away for too long
it may be ready to sing a new song;
based in part on all those impressions
carried over from its previous sessions.
Where it ends up is determined by fate
to balance out right 'n wrongs to date.
But if it has achieved full awareness
of its True nature by Grace in fairness
it makes its way back to that Abode
of Eternal Existence and Divine Node.
______________________
Mar 7, 2018
Mar 7, 2018 at 6:23 PM UTC
in baler where the sun shines and the waves visit
is where freedom bathes under the blue skies
in the seaside realm of surfing
simple hotels line the shore
where you can run to the beach fronts
after settling in little white rooms,
and in the blue water
wait tanned, youthful surfing instructors--
local boys of the province who've grown up
with the salt water as their playground.
get on your surfboard and
join the waters,
"mag-timing ka sa alon,"—
"wait for the waves", the instructors say
and lie down on your stomach on the surfboard,
and when you do get the waves you ride them fearlessly,
you are lifted, invincible,
by the hands of the philippine sea.
and if you don't surf,
the smooth sands are there,
calling you to lie around
under the seaside sun.
and when night falls
and the waves are reckless,
you can sit on the sand
with a bonfire and some drinks—
watch the stars
with the sound of the tides as your music
and do not fear;
for in the morning
the waves will come rushing
back to the shores of Balers
to give anyone freedom
as they always do.
Nov 10, 2016
Nov 10, 2016 at 10:52 PM UTC
comely, maybe
but not beautiful
my features are as round as vowels
and I carry the moon in my hips
I am an unpolished beauty
smooth pebbles resting at the bottom
of a cold clear stream
with an empty purse
imagination
my only currency
in this world
I am a shrinking violet
occasionally a rose
february-white
caught in your button-loop
long-stemmed red roses
stalk runways
hollywood bombshells
are bubbly as champagne
and full of flesh and light
but *** sans love
is still an empty bathtub
whatever happened to pin-up girls
long cigarette holders
and muted photographs?
I am distorted
in the fish-eye view
of the modern lens
in my fantasies
I am no longer sand and loam
I glow like a tall slim candle
though I am often numb and dumb
and my girls are as absent
as long lost unicorns
I am the bohemian princess
I travel through foreign lands
clothed in exotic costume
a jewelled headdress, and
indian pyjamas coloured sapphire,
turquoise and cayenne-red
my feet are near bare
and my hippie hair
is a mass of blonde curls
I take a sojourn in
southern california
warm desert air
soft against my skin
I surf in the salty sea
held buoyant by the waves
a sunset stains the sky tangerine
the palm trees
black against the orange light
click teasingly in the breeze
Oct 19, 2016
Oct 19, 2016 at 9:27 AM UTC
I watch the surfers
Sleek black forms
Bobbing up and down
Odd cormorants
Flocking here
Waiting
A New England rarity
Good surf
On a bright summer day
How long
have they waited
A life of
Vigilance
And anticipation
I wonder
Why they pass
On wave after wave
Opportunities lost
Having waited so long
From my view
Up on high
Their mistakes are
Laid bare
Future and past
A Rolling set
They wait
Adrift
ocean of time
Until the right wave
Comes
And carries them
Into the present
Aug 6, 2016
Aug 6, 2016 at 7:21 AM UTC