It's a thursday/wednesday night and the air is so thick and heavy with droplets you can see them hanging in the air like old TV grain or white noise. Across and above me the amber orbs of street lights hang out of saturated cloud spilling onto the pavements like a radioactive leak. It makes the grit shine like waste packaging of a chicken takeaway: yellow, lending a taudry glitter to greasy surroundings. But the streets are clean of people tonight.