The danger, the thrills, the risk, the chills, It all combines in wave riding to build The most euphoric experience around.
It doesn't matter whether it's ten-foot or two-foot, Nor whether I'm body surfing, bodyboarding, nor surfing - longboard or short. Hell, even a stand-up board will do the trick... if you know how to use it. Whatever you've got to use to gain that thrill That comes with harnessing Mother Nature, even against her will.
Some might be snobbish and frown upon those Who happen to ride only upon the foam, But in actuality it doesn't really matter So long as you're out there having fun, because in the end, That's truly the one who wins.
And to tell you the truth, I believe that's me. Scratch that. I know I am. When I am out there I know I am having the most fun. I'm whooping and hollering and exuding the raw exultation of being in the water - Of being at harmony, of being one with Mother Nature.
That, that is what matters, and That, that is what I embody.