It's always so funny how much I miss surfing.
I get away from it so much and for goodly lengths of time,
But when I finally get back to it,
It's true love all over again.

That pure, child-like jubilation at simply being back in the ocean
Combines with the euphoria and rush, the exuberance that comes with riding a wave.
It's a trip better than any drug,
A high more thrilling than anything else,
And the addiction always leaves me coming back.

I love it - simple as that.
Surfing: it's how life is meant to be.
Nothing else compares.