As you hear the waves pound the shore you shiver with excitement holding the slick surfboard waiting for the right moment.  On your stomach arms slicing through the ice cold water, feeling the spray of the ocean on your face, your suit clinging to you like a second skin.  With your back to the waves, body tense with anticipation, hearing the ocean roaring you calmly and carefully get to your feet, squatting on your board, having to keep your balance and not get disoriented you wait, waiting for the feel of your board being lifted, feeling it, you rise keeping your knees bent riding the surfboard over the face of the wave.  You look to the side of you seeing the curl of the wave, better known as the funnel cone.  Turning sharply you head for the cone.  The curl of the wave closes around you, but you do not feel afraid for you know that you are the one in control not the wave.  Staying on the wave, inside of the cone pushing your back foot on the back of the board sending you flying through.  Not looking back, but you can hear the funnel cone crashing behind you nipping at your heels urging you on busting out of the funnel cone at the end sharply maneuvering your board so you are now well on your way to the shore, dropping to your hands and feet, gripping the board with your hands you drop to your knees then straddling the board riding the last little bit of the wave to solid ground.  Standing on the shore you look out at the vast openness of the ocean with the sun setting on it with the colors dancing over the crystal blue water, feeling your heart slowing down finally the adrenaline rush leaving your veins.  You walk home with the slick board under your arm waiting for the next day seeing how many more waves you can catch.