Two glaciers that once kneaded the neck of this tiny tourist town have bled into the mountain -- now twin rivulets of ice ambling aimlessly up the rocky, grey *****. Robbed of its tourist prize, the town shrinks like snow in the scalding sun. I have not come for the snow nor the ice, but for the warm-blooded Alpine splendor, which cannot recede from this isolated valley. The ghosts of glaciers haunt my path up the hills into the belly of these bulky peaks, cemented to the earth like pillars of stone sculpting themselves. Tourists must settle for such shrunken beauty, still as intoxicating as new wine.