Dust devils swirl on the desert floor. Saguaro cacti raise their arms in praise or an invisible stick-up. No gunman looms on the horizon.
My father drives us home from California to Kansas in a brown '61 Chevy station wagon. His goal: to get there as soon as possible.
My brother and I bake in the back seat. The air-conditioning freezes over. We roll down the windows to a stifling wall of heat. Soon, we will cross
Death Valley, already 111 degrees at mid-morning. I squirm and worry that we do not have enough gas to make it. We are the only car
on the road. Emptiness breeds around us. My imagination peoples the void with phantoms, characters from comic books and drugstore Westerns. Ghosts hover over
my memory now; they hold the key to my travels. I must invoke them again. I hear the rumble of the American Southwest: canyons and buttes, mountains and hoodoos.
2.
On the outskirts of the Grand Canyon, my father searches in vain for a place to stay. All motels teem with the smell of curry -- for him, the stench of war in Calcutta, anathema to a young Army Seabee stationed leagues and leagues from home.
The neon light flashing VACANCY over the whitewashed, A-frame office might as well say NO. We do not stop. We sleep in the car, the four of us restive and uncomfortable, awakened at last by sunrise over the North Rim.
A sage-scented day has begun under a yellow-lavender sky. There are still miles and miles to go, as Frost put it. But something changed in the night. Barreling down the barren blacktop we have already gotten there, absence our new home.