I trained myself to hold my breath beneath the surface of the nut-brown river for three minutes and more. My companions would watch as I slipped from sight, their own breath held as the seconds wore on.
Above and around them the riverbank was a lens refracting a swarming jungle, macaws paired and perfect splitting the blue, tangles and torrents of green and the liquid burble of oropendulas and caciques. Why should anyone depart from this, deliberately descend into the murk for no more than a party-piece, a prank?
Because, the river carried news, the river throbbed with hidden life it was the Andes and the ocean and all points in between and down below the light and beauty it was mine alone.