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Hawaii, Just the name sounds magical, Oahu. Oh, wahoo! But the swell was dying down, Not as big as days prior. Still good enough for me. The undulating earth, Not fire, water. Slow rollers With surprising speed. Cresting, foamy peaks Avalanching into those clear bowl-like valleys below. Temporary hollowness Racing to devour the escape As the sleek slide rides On until the chase is up. Barrel after barrel For time out of mind that day Was spent in the surf. Great day in those crystal waters Riding the waves of the earth.
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Nov 18, 2010
Nov 18, 2010 at 9:04 PM UTC
Waimea Bay
Hawaii, Just the name sounds magical, Oahu. Oh, wahoo! But the swell was dying down, Not as big as days prior. Still good enough for me. The undulating earth, Not fire, water. Slow rollers With surprising speed. Cresting, foamy peaks Avalanching into those clear bowl-like valleys below. Temporary hollowness Racing to devour the escape As the sleek slide rides On until the chase is up. Barrel after barrel For time out of mind that day Was spent in the surf. Great day in those crystal waters Riding the waves of the earth.
jack-turner
Written by
American
Nov 18, 2010
Nov 18, 2010 at 9:04 PM UTC
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