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It's not all been bad. I have had some fun I started to surf when I was young If ever I was lost And out of reach I'd often be found Down at the beach My own little sanctuary Where I could be free Either sat on the sand Or out in the sea I love the ocean It blows my mind It's Calming yet dangerous Misterious yet kind The energy's magestic The feeling of joy Has captured my attention Since I was a boy. It's led me to travel To far distant shores I've met so many people Opened so many doors I've surfed with monkeys in trees And elephants on the beach Surrounded by dolphins And turtles within reach I've surfed during sunsets And sun rises as well Trippy seas and Trippy skies As if under a spell I've almost **** myself sometimes When caught in a gnarly rip Being dragged out to the big stuff That aint no ego trip When you can't see beneath The deep grey sharky water And the fish race away Is it me for the slaughter? But hang on, there it is Thank you neptune and peseidon Look out to the distance there on the horizon A little bump It's coming near A pulse of swell It's almost here I turn around My stick I straddle I face the land And start my paddle Then suddenly It lifts me up Propels me forward Fills my cup It makes me feel so very awake I jump to my feet For goodness sake I'm 100% Right there in the now Conjoined with nature No interest in how Just doing it because I'm it's biggest fan Loving it loving it because It's there and I can Already a treat This gift keeps on giving I put in a few turns Life is so worth living Then the wall gets top heavy, It's the best feeling ever Everything goes quiet It's a sublime endeavour I'm inside the wave for a second or two The green room, The barrel. Deep in the blue There's no feeling like it I can't even explain Wonderous, breathtaking It's ******* insane I pull out of the journey Can't get any higher Full of adrenaline My brain is on fire Riding those waves Gives me so much pleasure I guess like the pirate Finding the treasure The greatest way To improve my emotion Is to float about In that big old ocean.
0
Oct 24, 2019
Oct 24, 2019 at 1:30 PM UTC
Speechless
It's not all been bad. I have had some fun I started to surf when I was young If ever I was lost And out of reach I'd often be found Down at the beach My own little sanctuary Where I could be free Either sat on the sand Or out in the sea I love the ocean It blows my mind It's Calming yet dangerous Misterious yet kind The energy's magestic The feeling of joy Has captured my attention Since I was a boy. It's led me to travel To far distant shores I've met so many people Opened so many doors I've surfed with monkeys in trees And elephants on the beach Surrounded by dolphins And turtles within reach I've surfed during sunsets And sun rises as well Trippy seas and Trippy skies As if under a spell I've almost **** myself sometimes When caught in a gnarly rip Being dragged out to the big stuff That aint no ego trip When you can't see beneath The deep grey sharky water And the fish race away Is it me for the slaughter? But hang on, there it is Thank you neptune and peseidon Look out to the distance there on the horizon A little bump It's coming near A pulse of swell It's almost here I turn around My stick I straddle I face the land And start my paddle Then suddenly It lifts me up Propels me forward Fills my cup It makes me feel so very awake I jump to my feet For goodness sake I'm 100% Right there in the now Conjoined with nature No interest in how Just doing it because I'm it's biggest fan Loving it loving it because It's there and I can Already a treat This gift keeps on giving I put in a few turns Life is so worth living Then the wall gets top heavy, It's the best feeling ever Everything goes quiet It's a sublime endeavour I'm inside the wave for a second or two The green room, The barrel. Deep in the blue There's no feeling like it I can't even explain Wonderous, breathtaking It's ******* insane I pull out of the journey Can't get any higher Full of adrenaline My brain is on fire Riding those waves Gives me so much pleasure I guess like the pirate Finding the treasure The greatest way To improve my emotion Is to float about In that big old ocean.
Written by
46/M/Cornwall, UK
Oct 24, 2019
Oct 24, 2019 at 1:30 PM UTC
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